Pic del martell

Geamm to the pic del martell reserve 1

L1 (V+ 25 meters) The exit is a bit scary as it is a bit steep and if you fall you will fall to the ground for sure. Instead of following this buril, I started on the left (where the shadow is in the image).
L4 (V+ 40 meters) We start climbing in bavaresa on a nice wall. We followed two parabolt routes that lead us through a diagonal crack, and finally vertically towards a tree where we mounted the R.
This is one of the adventure routes that I like, with an affordable degree of difficulty, but with many self-protection steps. It is only 110 meters in 4 pitches, but if you have previously climbed another route (as in our case we have done the Maneras de Vivir) you will be more than satisfied. This is a route to repeat 🙂
After parking, the first thing to do is to walk down the road about 30 meters to the first curve and enter a path marked with milestones. You have to walk as if you were going to the Cova del Bombers, another super explosive sport climbing area:
You should not approach this wall yet, you have to continue down a little further. You have to pay attention to the plates that mark the beginning of the routes, they are usually written with paint the name of these.

Chumi chumez, pic del martell nov 10_1.mpg

After leaving the car in the parking lot, just in front of the sea, we enter the mountain through a path full of rocks. Be careful not to get too steep, and follow the direction a little to the right, trying to follow the signs, so as not to deviate from the path. We go through a hull and descend again, now facing the base of the wall that begins to rise. After passing the cova dels Bombers, we begin to find the long paths, most of them marked on the wall with an inscription of red color. A little further on we find the area that is our objective.

Thoumasset ridge

We park in the area provided for this purpose, we go down a few meters along the road and then we find the path that goes straight ahead. If we are attentive we will find signs that mark the path among the many variants that there are. When the path begins to descend we can start to go down the land. The path begins a few meters to the left of the bombers wait.
The first length begins by a highlight followed by a stretch of vegetation and a flat plate with some fine passes until arriving at the horizontal ridge and the collapsed wall where the road continues. It is necessary to shake a little to overcome the overhang and then to follow the fissure (V). Some horizontal strip and overcome a grey plate to enter the R1 in a couple of rocky places on the right. Jordi has demanded this length and has secured it to taste. There is only one rock bridge at the crack after the overhang.
The second length goes along the left side of the support at the top. I flank the length flanking to the left, far to the rear, by a plate with a couple of very thin burins. There are some really fine steps (V+) until you reach a stone bridge. Afterwards it is followed a little bit by good fissure and it is possible to put some very good alien. Now it’s time to make a decisive step, strong tibant to go to put the feet on the overhang, to the right. An alien is also very good here and a few meters further on another one to place yourself in a diagonal turn to the left. It continues a vertical fissure where there enters a hot rock and then it is only necessary to go a little diagonally through a very nice fissure until the R2, with two spits and that I reinforce with a good rock boulder.

Coma de l’orri

To climb this route it is more than advisable to take friends, (we took the Camalot and the Alien semaphore). The equipment is very scarce, but at least the meetings are reequipped with parabolt and there are belays on the most difficult pitches (there are even intermediate meetings to rappel down the route).
The first moves of the first pitch are through a dihedral in which there is a tree in the middle of the way… While I was dodging it I was thinking about where I had gone hahaha, what a dirty start. Except that the route improves quickly and the quality of the rock is very good.
It is quite difficult to follow the route correctly since there are many routes everywhere and many times they cross each other…but well, they all have a similar difficulty between V and 6a, and they are all routes of about 3 pitches and 110 meters long.
Locating the route will not be an easy task. It is a little repeated climbing and the vegetation grows as if it were a jungle preventing to explore the base of the wall. The first thing to do is to walk down the road about 30 meters to the first curve and enter a path marked with milestones. You have to go as if you were going to the Cova del Bombers, another super explosive sport climbing area: